Moving on

Lombok, Indonesia

A short plane ride from Bali is the neighbouring island of Lombok, in the past very much the land that tourists forgot, or worse ignored, definitely not the flashpacker magnet that it is today. The two Indonesian islands are different in many respects, but most markedly in their religious outlook. Lombok is mainly Muslim, versus a predominantly Hindu population in Bali, and there is definitely a less permissive feel about the place, at least on the surface. Scratching beneath the surface is of course where most of the fun and true discovery lie, and we soon meet someone who is willing to show us what lurks beneath. Larby is a charismatic chap hailing from Morocco via Holland who we meet at one of his restaurants called KRNK, an industrial-themed fusion eatery incorporating cuisines from around the world. A raconteur, philosopher, foodie, lover of all things marine and in short excellent company, he takes us under his wing for a night and shows us a variety of south Lombok’s nightspots, even including a bar built in to the back of a VW Camper van. Riding a motorcycle taxi home in a torrential downpour rounds off a raucous night.

Exploring the southern shores of south Lombok is a wonderful way to pass time, best enjoyed on a motorcycle, with tiny pristine strips of sand dotting the coastline, each new discovery claiming breathtaking superiority over its predecessor. At the top of the metaphorical (palm)tree is Selong Balanak, an absolutely gorgeous gem of tranquility that will proudly stand alongside the best the Caribbean has to offer. They are connected by a winding, often very steep and heavily rutted road that snakes through the mountains and dissects the valleys, offering a glimpse in to the busy lives of the locals who are lucky enough to call this slice of paradise home.

Travelling north to Senggigi, a resort town in north-west Lombok, we rendezvous with Kevin and enjoy a few relaxing nights and slow mornings. Aside from introducing us to the wonderful local dish of ayam taliwang, an incredibly fragrant grilled chicken curry, there wasn’t much happening here, save for a few bars frequented by aging expats and bar flies. From there it’s a fifteen minute ferry ride to the famed Gili Islands, a tropical paradise we’ve all seen on postcards and of course dreamt about, endless stretches of white sand beaches, turquoise coral-filled waters and hammocks hung from palm trees, but with one major difference, there is not one motorized vehicle on any of the islands. Our first stop is Gili Trawangan, certainly the most lively of the three, infamous for its rowdy bars and the monthly full moon party. Despite being the largest of the islands, navigating the myriad beaches, resorts and restaurants is easy enough though with a number of horse-drawn taxi carriages known as cidomos honking their way around the island. A few hundred horses are employed for this purpose, across all the Gilis and it seems to me that they’re worked very hard, in fact I later find out that their average life expectancy is only 3 years. Perhaps as a result of this cruelty a number of visitors choose to walk, however with a lap of Trawangan taking about three hours, most opt to rent bicycles. There’s something for everyone here with the 5 star crowd well catered to as well as the backpacker on the tightest budget. This inclusivity adds to the fun vibe.

We skip over Gili Meno, the honeymooner’s idyll with all the atmosphere of a monastery, to Gili Air which is less frenetic than Trawangan yet still lively enough for all but the most hedonistic, whilst retaining many of the original charms and reggae soundtrack that lured those early visitors. Basically Gili Air is the sister that you’d marry, and as in any good relationship time simply flies by in its company. Just as days are about to turn in to weeks we regain our senses and realize it’s now or never if we are to escape the clutches of the mesmeric Gilis. Packing to leave is agonizing.

Malaysia

We start in Kuala Lumpur, where the similarities to my hometown of Toronto are striking. Two fast-growing culturally diverse alpha world cities of approximate size known primarily for their skyline-dominating towers, as well as being the commercial hubs of their respective countries. Life here is fast-paced and it’s easy to get swept up in the hustle and bustle of the metropolis.

Food is outstanding, no doubt helped by the cosmopolitan nature of the population. Our first meal is dinner at one of the most popular Indian restaurants in the city and it’s easy to see why. Upon arrival we are instructed to make quick choices without the aid of a menu before we are even seated in the packed room. Once sat, a banana leaf is laid out in front of us and the next twenty minutes are a whirlwind of servers dumping delicious heaps of exotic food in front of us. We can’t get enough, but sadly our bellies decide that we’ve reached our limit and as we waddle out, our banana leaves are rolled and quickly discarded, our seats are filled and the whole process repeats, it’s a brilliantly efficient system. Other culinary highlights include the Jalan Alor street/restaurant market, where a cacophony of sound greets us as vendors vie for our attention, hoping to lure the undecided masses. We opt to spend our hard-earned with the less vocal, strategizing that their food will do the talking, and it proves to be a sound philosophy as we feast on everything from multi-coloured dumplings to chicken wings, and a few things besides. Sometimes ignorance can be culinary bliss.

Flying north to Langkawi, the jewel of Malaysia, we swap the gastronomic delights of the capital for the visually stunning archipelago located in the Andaman Sea to the north-west. Here mangrove-clad limestone cliffs form scores of islands that stretch as far as the eye can see, it’s some of Mother Nature’s very best work. We get a birds-eye view as we ascend the world’s steepest cable car rising to over 700m above sea-level, I can’t imagine a better vista.

Driving up to Gunung Raya mountain to soak in the view from Langkawi’s highest point doesn’t bring the reward that it should, so we content ourselves with an afternoon on Tanjung Rhu beach and finally sampling roti canai, the most famous local dish consisting of a savoury crepe acting as a bed for various types of curry lying on top, it tastes as good as it sounds. Another afternoon is spent at the picturesque Telaga Tujuh where no less than seven waterfalls cascade down a series of rocks forming several natural pools most of which are deep enough to enjoy a refreshing swim.

Our final stop in Malaysia, Georgetown the UNESCO designated corner on the island of Penang. fails to excite, a grossly underwhelming experience. Whether it’s the travel fatigue or the scorching heat, we never manage to get going in this much-hyped region and consequently spend most of the time holed up in a beautiful hotel room occasionally venturing out for the undeniably fantastic street food. It’s time to move on.